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Feb-05

20/2: Got the SSB working today! listened into the 'Paranoia Net' 8104.0 or better know as the Security Net.  Propagation was bad but heard some of our friends in the out-islands. Finally after 6 weeks of waiting.  Also got the head fixed.  The part cost $120 plus shipping, the head only cost $100 new.  Needed to get it fixed for Suz's visit.

17/2: We spoke with Jiame and our parts have cleared customs and should be here today or tomorrow (6 weeks).  As I have stated before things here operate little differently than the US.  In the US an item is shipped from aboard and you pay the duty if owned based on the price of the item.  In Venezuela you pay the duty in cash based on the value that the Customs officer handling your stuff determines its value.  Basically whatever they think they can get from you!!  We pay Jiame to make sure that the amount we have to pay is reasonable and doesn't hold up our stuff.  Things get LOST and there are no refunds.

Read an interesting Venezuelan tax notice for Coca-Cola.  It seems Coke bottling failed to pay some taxes.  The Chavez government shut down 4 bottling plants and 29 distribution centers until they are current( also happening to some McDonalds restaurants as well).  Using this hardline approach the Gov't was able to collect an additional $13Billion in taxes last year, double the previous year.  We have people in the US worth more than the annual tax collection here.

Oriente Canvas installed our side enclosures today.  803,000 bs or $320 total.  Custom fit with window and roll down cover.  It looks great!  These guys do good work and you couldn't buy the Sunbrella in the US for the the total cost.  Next is the awning and dinghy cover.

Work update:  Batteries sorted, waiting for 2 more.  The full charge voltage of the lead acid is 12.9 volts, lower than the 13.2 we had been seeing with the AGM. 

Need to complete the SSB install, finally getting the parts after 6 weeks wait.

16/2: Installed the new Trojan T105s.  The old batteries we 12 volt AGM's and the replacements are 6 volt liquid batteries.  T0 install had to rewire to create banks of 12 volt by putting 2 in series and then wire the sets in parallel. ( One of the best tools to have on hand is a lug pinning tool.  Basically you fit the cable into the correct lug, place the lug it the slot, in our case 2/0 and hammer.  It creates a compressed bond that makes and excellent mechanical fit.) Fired the system up and had 12.5 volts.  Put the charger on them and after 4 hours turned the charger off and the batteries drops down 12.65 volts.  Not good.  Checked the connections and everything appears ok.  Will try an equalize charge and see if they respond if not we will haul them back to Vamesca.

The marine store that had the batteries is called Vamesca and the head salesman is Potter.  We hate to go there as he is a bit slippery.  Quoted one price showed me the sheet and then when I came to pick the batteries up the price went up 40,000 bs.  plus the concern is that these batteries might have been returns but just set for resale.  They are a bit untrustworthy and you always feel that you are being ripped off.

These batteries are not holding a charge (did a short equalize)!  Have to return them and see where else we can go if they can't find good new ones!

14/2: Happy Santo Valentin to my sweeties, Admiral Sharon and Mom!!!!  Love ya both.

Cruising is about work as well as play.  We have been having problems with our Heart battery charger.  It has been going to high voltage and has toasted our battery bank.    Unlike the US where I could just run down to one of my favorite charities like West Marine or Fawcett's, Venezuela has fewer choices that involve more hunting.  Also having to look at St Marteen to get the charger repaired.  That will be an excise all by itself!!!!!

The local battery is made by Duncan.  Their best comes with a 6 month warranty, yikes.  Not one person we spoke had anything good to say about them.  They are not that cheap either.  We have 3 AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries that need to be replaced.  The best price we could get here was around $1,500 if we could get them shipped in country. 

Rick from 'Second Lady' and I went around to the various battery shops and the only thing to be had was the Duncans.  We decided to go with the cruiser standard.  Trojan deep cycle 6 volt batteries in series to build a 12 volt bank with 675AMPS.  Money I did not want to spend but we have to have them.  The battery box has plenty of room but I need to make new cables to install the bank.  More needs to be done

8/2:  We found out today who was crowned Queen of Carnaval.  It was #8, Anna Karrina, who was cheered by our section. 

4/2:  Well Carnaval is here.  Jiime and Andreas arranged transportation for 40 cruisers.  We were dropped off at the baseball stadium and escorted to our seats by the heavily armed Polica.  We set right behind home plate with a good view of the stage to select the Queen of Carnaval.   As with everything here we are on Venezuelan time.  The show was supposed to started at 7:30 PM it finally got going around 9:30.  Right on time! 

It was interesting if not very loud, music blaring, speech making, and on.  It was fun, but the contestants and the show looked like it was done in some high school.  We had 40 cent ice cream (which was real cream pour over a a cup of flavored crushed ice, very good) and 40 cent beers.  It was tourist stadium prices after all!  We watched people partying and having a good time.  One of the things we noticed is the amount of boob jobs done on women as young as the teens and most of the guys were very scrawny.  

 We enjoyed the show worked on our Spanish and generally had a good time.  Soon it was time to go and Andreas shepparded us home.  We can't wait until next year and we get to be in Trinidad for Carnaval!

DIVE!!!DIVE!!!DIVE!!!

Ray & Gale of 'Precocious Gale' and I went on our first Venezuela dive.  Sharon couldn't go because of her eye surgery.  We took a taxi to the Aquatic dive center in Paseo Colon.  The dive was to the outer reef north of Isla De Faro (lighthouse island). We loaded our equipment in the parogue and off we went through the islands and finally stopped 1/3 of a mile north of Isla de Faro. Our captain, a Cuban ex-pat, dropped anchor and with a quick overview off we went.  We dove in 100+ feet around the reef.  I only went past 75 for a few minutes.  The below the thermo cline the water temp was a chilly 73 degrees F.  Way to cold.  Beside the view wasn't ay different than 45-55 ft.

After the first dive went to an anchorage on the south side of the island that looked like a post card.  While we relaxed and waited out our dive interval (period of time above water after a dive to let the nitrogen exit our bodies to prevent the bends) the guide took another guest on a discovery dive.  This is a guided dive done after covering the basics.  This allows someone to try diving on controlled conditions. 

After lunch we did a cave dive.  The entrance was 45' down and was 6X20'.  It then went up at an angel until we broke the surface in the cave.  It was excellent.  The roof was about 50' up and the cave was 100' long and wide.  There were several large stalactites hanging from the ceiling.  This was  a very old cave.  While buddy diving with Gale the guide Virgina pointed out a very large Atlantic Spade fish and a huge porcupine fish.

After surfacing we headed back to the dock and were home by 3PM.  The owner of the dive shop was kind enough to give us a ride.  The taxis probably would not have been happy for us to climb in t he cabs with all of wet gear.  The whole day including 2 tanks of air, the parogue, lunch, and a guide for bs 78,000 or $30 US.  Pretty inexpensive!

2/2:  Sharon and the crew of 'Second Lady' can now see without glasses.  Their eyes are still not 100% but they walking around and watching TV without glasses or contacts.  Sharon is much happier and

1/2:  Another month has started and Carnival is this weekend.  Sharon's ojos (eyes) are getting better.  Her vision is improving as her eyes heal. Her sight has improved to where she is watching TV and reading without her glass or contacts!

One of the similarities of cruising and living in a house is the need for transportation when  you leave home.  When on land in the States we jumped in the Miata and buzzed down to one of my favorite charities (West Marine, Home Depot...).  Living on a boat where are home is now floating we jump into our dinghy and head off to shop.  Our original tender was a Water tender 9.4 and a Nissan 5hp 4cycle engine.  It was like driving a Yugo.  Very slow and not a lot of room, but it was cheap.

Since we are in the land of inexpensive we decided now was a time to upgrade to a Porsche on water.  We bought a new Caribe C10X last month, but it needed a bit more zip than the Nissan 5hp, today we got a Mercury 15HP 2 cyl.  I started the break-in process and wow.  At half throttle it went up on plane and we blew to Plaza Mayor in record time.  Can't wait until I can open it up.

It is also Tuesday and Marie-Elena at Al Ancla made ribs tonight.  The Tuesday night special.   A bunch of cruisers got together for dinner and talk.  It is always fun, but Sharon's eyes are still a bit tired and sore so we bagged it early and came back to Makai for the evening.

Mar-05

30/3:  We made it to Los Testigos, our last stop in Venezuela.  It is small set of islands poking up 800 feet out of the water.  We anchored in a small bay on a beautiful beach.  We could see the waves crashing on the shore right across the way.  While we were there fisherman came and surrounded us with nets.  They started drawing the nets in with a large group of people on shore pulling.  Little by little the the net got smaller until they asked us to move.  They lowered the net we motored over the top and re-anchored.

27/3:  We left Cubagua and headed for Porlamar on Margarita Island.  It only took us about 4.5 hours motor sailing upwind to get there.  We dropped anchor and started to relax.  In the morning we chatted with Wombat of Sydney on the SSB and found out that the lost their engine and generator about an hour after leaving Trinidad to head to the Testigos.  Not electricity except what is in the house bank. Since it was downwind they were not having any major problems and would continue to the Testigos as planned.

Around 6PM a call came over the VHF from Wombat.  They were about an hour out and sailing on the kite.  They hoped to make it to Porlamar before sunset and anchor under sail.  We offered to stand by and assist.  Well just around sundown they came is sailed up through the anchorage and tacked back upwind before dropping the hook.  When they were settled we brought our Honda generator over so they could charge up.

They next day we went into town with them as illegal aliens.  We weren't clearing in as we were going to leave.  We stayed around to help Wombat.  In Town we had lunch did some shopping and a bit of sight seeing before heading back.  We were leaving at 3AM and we need our beauty sleep.

26/3: We hung around Cubagua for a couple of days.  Beautiful beach, lighthouse, and a the wreck of a car carrier that ran aground and burned for a week.  We enjoyed the days reading and made a trip to walk the beach.  Found mom a sea shell that is almost translucent red. 

25/3:  Good Friday (or so says the calendar), today we headed out it 6AM AST.  IT WAS NOT A GOOD FRIDAY.  Some say that leaving on a Friday is bad luck.  We left because were already on our journey to Trinidad.  Well Makai ran aground 5 minutes after raising anchor on what started out to be a beautiful day.  It took an 1 1/2 hours to get free with the help of Guarimba III. We use 2 dinghies with 15 hp out boards and the boats engines to work Makai off the hard coral and petrified tree bottom.  It was painful.  We finally cleared and started the eastbound leg to Cabagua.  Thanks to Guarimba III for the help!!! 

We finally thought ok this is it we are finally making headway to Trinidad after being held up by winds.  We had some dolphins come by the boat while still in the Gulfo de Caricao to send us of.  This is usually a sign of good luck.  Well, on the northbound leg in 15 knots of wind the stay for the bowsprit let go - HARD.  We had to pull  down the screecher in a hurry.  The winds were starting to pickup and it was time to bring it in anyway.

The weather forecast was a bit off.  It didn't calm down.  We headed upwind pounding for the next 15 miles to Cabagua.  We munched on popcorn and cinnamon rolls while I refilled my spilled coffee 3 times.  Thing are not going good today.  We finally sighted the anchorage and headed in.  We dropped the hook in 8 feet of water near the lighthouse and wreck of a car carrier that had burned.  He had worse luck than us. 

Sharon jumped in the water to look at the damage and there is a fair amount of the starboard keel that is torn up.  We will need a haul to get it repaired.  It is not critical to the boat as the builder put in a sacrificial keel stub, but I want it repaired anyway.  We will check the prices in Trinidad if not it will wait until return to Puerto la Cruz.  This was all before 1:30PM!

We are anchored and now we will just sit and relax (as best we can since the anchorage is real rolly) and wait for the weather to see if we hang here or make our next leg to Margarita and then Los Testigos.  These are all up wind so we want a easy trip.

Did I mention that this is NOT a Good Friday????

23/3:  Well today we leave to Trinidad.  The wind is predicted to be 20-25 knots.  High but not bad.  First we need fuel badly.  We are almost empty.  So our first stop was Marina Cumanagoto.  We came in the narrow blocked channel.  Sharon talked with the fuel dock and they said no fuel....yikes again.  After some more conversation She figured out that it was no fueling until a big catamaran moved from another dock so that the mega yacht at the fuel dock could move.  The marina people were looking for the owners.  Some people dock and walk away form there boats without letting the marina know who they are.  Finally after sitting and waiting for 30 minutes we were able to get fuel.

We pulled up to the dock and tied off.  We started to fill our main diesel tanks first.  it took a while as they were empty.  Makai took on 419 liters of diesel.  About $8bucks US.  We like these prices.  Why can't we have fuel like this America???  We also got more gasoline 7 gallons (under 1 dollar US).  The total was 24,000 bs plus a tip.  Our last diesel fill up was at $.62 gallon and we bought 100 gallons.  Makai now looks like a floating gas can.  We bought extra containers for gas and diesel and filled them up.  It is so cheap that it is cheaper to buy a can and throw it away after using if we choose than to by fuel up island $4-7 a gallon.

We saw Wind Borne and said goodbyes across the VHF airwaves.  We cleared the fuel dock and headed north to Cubagua.  The winds picked up to 25 knots and we flew sometimes hitting 9 knots slightly downwind.  Couldn't wait to get to a beam reach at our next waypoint.  Well the winds started to hit 35 knots as we went north.  We put a reef in the main and continued.  The wind and waves continued to build, so we decided that we had better head back to safe harbor.  What took us an hour out took several to get back.  We then headed back up the Gulfo towards Puerto Real.  After coming in and trying to anchor (wind was blowing 30's in the harbor) we decided to checkout Laguna Chica.  It too was windy.  White caps in the harbor.  So we edged up behind a large hill in the lee and tried to drop anchor.  It was rock and the anchor drug.  So decided to go back to Laguna Grande to sit out these winds.  We ended up dropping anchor near Jabulani as the bay we were in the first time was being blocked off by the fisherman so they could get all of the fish.  It is 7:30 and the sun is setting the wind is dropping and we are beat to no end.  We will listen to the weather on the SSB and probably try again on Thursday.

21/3: We have enjoyed hanging around Laguna Grande in the Gulfo de Caricao, Venezuela.  It is a desert beauty with tons of petrifies trees.  We enjoyed a hike and then went to have lunch with Wind Borne III and their daughter Kelly.  Dona Carolina made a turkey dinner complete with the fixin's.  Sharon brought her favorite Flan (my favorite actually).  We enjoyed good food, great company, but it was sad.  They are headed off to Canada for a Bell Canada Hero award while we head east then north until hurricane season.  We hope to cross their path and many others we met in PLC.  Cruising is like that, you make great friends and you leave.  Then make new friends and then remake old friends as paths cross.

18/3:  Beautiful day.  light head winds (none actually) and great sunshine.  About an 1 hour after departure we saw dolphins. Then we had dolphins everywhere,  jumping across the bow and diving.  They followed or lead us for about 45 minutes.  Sorry Suz,  if you decided to come with us you could have seen this sight.

17/3:  We said our good byes and with he help of Arnoldo we cast off.  First stop the fuel dock for all of that cheap fuel.  But...The fuel dock is out of diesel!  They are having problems with the pump and said maybe tomorrow.  We decided to go out to Isla de Faro anyway and check tomorrow.  Sharon called a generally inquiry and Revery and Starlight Dancer both said that we could get fuel in Cumuna. So we enjoyed a great night at anchor and then in the morning headed to the Gulfo.

14/3:  We are preparing to depart this Thursday.  The plan is cruise the Golfo de Caricao for a couple of weeks where we will try to meet up with Wind Borne III and their daughter Kelly.  Then on the first good weather window head north to a small island chain called Los Testigos.  It is a supposed to beautiful area.  sand beaches, no permanent resident's except the Guardia station and a few fishing camps.  After we get tired of the beautiful island we will head to Trinidad to spend a few weeks before heading north. 

Worked on preparing Makai for departure.  Because of the cheap fuel, 7 cents a gallon for diesel and 14 cents a gallon for gas we have been adding extra capacity by tying on 20 liter plastic acid cans.  I know in the US they have to be red but here the red cans cost $37 US and are flimsier.  These plastic cans are white cost $4 US and we have seen fisherman using them for eons.  The cans cost more than the fuel.  Hopefully we will have enough to get us through end of June when we return.  Gas and diesel in the windwards can cost as much as $4-5/gal.

6/3: On Suz's last night, the El Ancla restaurant owner Roberto came to the table but she couldn't make up her mind what she wanted so Roberto said 'Trust me, I'll make you something good'  He brought a stand to our table, a small propane stove, shrimp,  Cognac, and other ingredients.  Roberto with great flair and fire made Suzy her dinner.  It was excellent (of course we had to try it).  We had a Sambvca on the house and chatted with George from 'Pyewacket'. 

We hauled her off to the aeropuerto for her first leg to Caracas, PR, and home!

Friday night was neat.  Alex the Waiter invited us to have pabillon creollo (a traditional Venezuelan) dish at his house made by his mom.  It all started when Sharon asked Oswaldo where we could get really good pabillon creollo.  Alex came by and said his grandma made the best and invited us to dinner.  Friday night he picked us, Suzy, and Wind-Borne III us in his car, a 74 Ford.  We drove to his mom's house and up the stairs we went.  The house is perched on the hill over looking PLC and the bay.  We climbed up the stairs and made a switchback on to a dirt path that lead to a staircase and up to the house.

The house had a great view and a wonderful breeze.  We met Alex's Mom, Step dad, 4 sisters, and 2 little cute cousins.  We said our hellos and chatted as best we could with our broken Spanish with Alex translating when needed.  Sharon was able to talk with everyone.  We enjoyed wine and Alex was right, his family makes the best pabillon creollo.  The meal was awesome.  We did feel bad as the dining table was small and the rest of the family had to eat next door.

After dinner there was dancing, marengi.  Sharon, Suzy, Rick, Carolyn and Alex's family hit the floor.  The music was neat and everyone had a good time.  We enjoyed chatting and dancing until late at night.  The second latest we had been up since getting here.  Soon it was time to head home.  We all said our good byes and Sharon invited the family for an Asian meal on Wed evening at the boat.

3/3: Friday we spent the at Isla de Faro.  We sailed with Suzy, Rick & Lila from 'Second Lady', and G. This is a beautiful inlet with a spectacular beach.  This is a busy anchorage during the weekend but weekdays it is quiet.  We dropped the hook and spent the afternoon snorkeling and eating some great vittles made by Sharon and Rick.  Soon the day started to close we headed home.  We did get to sail half of the trip back but the winds were light and just faded away.  We fired up the iron genny and we got ourselves home, tired and ready for a nap!

2/3:  Another month is here and our friend Suz is here and we have been on the run.  Since last week Friday we have gone to Los Alto's, a chartered snorkel trip to the Piscina, Guácharo Cave, and a river walk to the Mira Flores.  Suzy arrived at the Barcelona Airport and we met her at the gate.  She was ready to go and see the sights.  We came back to the marina and had a late dinner at El Ancla restaurant.  The next morning we got up and went up to Los Alto's with 'Wind Borne III' and their guest Pam.  We stopped at Hector's coffee plantation, Tai potters, casa de Carlos where the view was superb, and had lunch a Picolata (I liked Vista Montana better).

G was our tour guide for the trip.  We left at 8:30 in the morning for a 3 hour drive to the caves. We stopped for lunch and then went to the caves.  We did the second to last tour.  We were hit for tourist rates @ 8000bs or about $3.  The cave is huge and goes back about 10 kilometers.  It is the 2nd longest cave in Venezuela.  Or guide walked the 3 of back.  The cave has about 19,000 birds (see side bar).  They make a racket and you can't see them, the scene would make Alfred Hitchcock nervous.

We hiked back about 2/3 of a mile looking at the cave formations, the crabs and fish.  The rats that live in the cave spend an entire life time there.  They are cute not like the big city rats.

Hector was called away so Carlos gave the tour.  I got to cut a bunch of bananas off the stalk.  Unfortunately we forgot to get them from Carlos' car and they baked in the sun for 2 days...yuck.  Sharon and Suz saw the sites, the views were much better as there were fewer clouds this time.

Dona Carolina from 'Wind Borne III' arranged a power cat charter snorkel trip to Punta del Cruz and the Piscina for snorkeling. We took a very funny looking catamaran and motored east to the snorkel spots.  It was just the 6 of us.  They had beverages and and munchies for the trip. 

We stopped at Punta del Cruz and anchored just of shore and went into the water an snorkeled the reef.  It was nice and the surrounding scenery was beautiful with the islands and the views into the Caribbean.  After a bit we went over to the Piscina.  It is a shallow behind a reef in between 2 islands.  The water is like a pool and it has an interesting reef and some reef fish.  Sharon spotted the rare snorkel fish....ok it was just a long lost snorkel, but it did have coral growing on it.  after a hour or so went went around the island and had lunch at the resturant on the beach.  We putz'd on the beach and finally packed up to head home.  We didn't see any dolphins but the day was full of fun and sun!

Apr-05

29/4:  We have enjoyed our stay in Trinidad, but we are ready to leave.  Overall it is a good place to work on the boat, but the sight seeing and the scenery is not very good.  The harbor is a rolly dirty commercial port.  We can't wait to head north to the Windwards to see the islands. We raised anchor around 3PM for an overnight sail to Carriacaou. 

Makai's sails raised and started on a tack just forward of a beam reach and making good time (6-7 knots).  During the passage we watch for other vessels and noticed a fishing boat that was 4-5 miles away but crossing our path.  All of a sudden it turned south towards Makai.  We weren't concerned just that we would have to keep an eye on it.  As the oncoming boat headed south it started turning towards us on a converging course.  There are pirates out here so we altered course to give as much room as possible.

 The sun was setting and it was getting harder to clearly make out the vessel.  It kept turning towards us and getting closer.  Sharon tried calling them on the VHF but got no response.  They kept waving and since we could determine if the they were friendly other that the boat kept turning towards us and trying to cross our bow.  We assumed it was hostile.  Sharon called the Trinidad Coast Guard  to apprise them of our situation.

We were swerving and altering tacks.  The kept waving.  It was getting tense.  They came across our bow so close that we had to crank the engines and jam them in reverse.  With black smoke pouring out of the exhaust we missed a near collision.  The nerves were flying.  I thought we were about to boarded when.........they finally in Spanish were able to warn us of their fishing nets!

It seems they had been trying to warn us of the nets in the open ocean.  If they would have left us alone we would have missed their nets by a mile on the course we were on.  Sharon called the TT Coast Guard and let them know we were ok.  They stood by on the radio during the action and then offered to track us as we sailed north.  Way too much excitement, but it ended ok.

The winds died in the middle of the night and we ended up motoring past Grenada and finally getting to our destination around lunch time.  We dropped anchor in a beautiful anchorage of Hillsbourgh and relaxed.

21/4: Just got back from our bird watching expedition.  We went over to Asa Wright Nature Center on Wednesday and stayed the night.  The Nature Center has a huge verandah with bird feeders all around.  This attracts over a hundred species of birds throughout the year.  We we fortunate to see at least 20 different exotic birds, including the red legged honeycreeper.

This afternoon, we went over to the Caroni Swamp to watch the scarlet Ibis come in to roost.  They are an incredibly red bird.  We kept thinking they were fake!  Like the flamingo, they get their color from the food they eat.

19/4: Yesterday we finally got to go see the Leatherback turtles.  Jesse James arranged a Maxi-Taxi driven by Ronald as his was hit while parked in front of the office.  We were picked up a 5PM for a couple hour drive across Trinidad to Saline Bay.  Several other boats accompanied us. 

Once we got through the rush hour traffic the drive wasn't to bad.  The road here are very twisty and rough, not to mention they drive on the wrong side of the road.  That doesn't seem to make a difference as the back roads are 1 1/2 lanes wide and the drivers drive on what ever side is smoother.  The road slowly deteriorated into a broken beaten one lane path.  The seats we hard in the Maxi but we finally arrived at the beach.

We had some snacks provided by Jesse (very good) while waiting for the guides.  You must have a permit and a guide!  The guides checked out the beach and hurriedly came back for our group. Christopher said that a turtle was making her way up and we needed to get down there quickly.  We walked down to the beach under a bright half moon.  By the time we walked to the spot where she was going to lay her eggs the hole was mostly dug.  We watched as the laying started.

Christopher explained that the turtles are very shy and if they see something that they are not sure about on the beach they will turn around and go back to the sea and try again the next night.  The Leatherbacks can hold their eggs for 3-5 days but after that they just will release them in the water.  So no noise and no lights.  We watched as the Mom laid about 80-120 eggs with small spacer eggs.  The small eggs leave room for the hatchlings as they make their break to the surface about 2 months after being laid.  We also learned that the depth and location make a difference as to whether the group will be mostly male or female.  The warmer the temps the greater number of female born.

After laying the eggs the Mom will bury and camouflage the nest by flinging sand over it.  The Mom we were watching tried to camo me as well!  Another nearby turtle was measured by length and width and weighted. She was a smaller one and she came to 850 pounds.  The one we were watching probably came in over a 1000 pounds.  As we were getting ready to leave anther one came in from the crashing waves.  We had to stay still and quiet so as not to scare her off.  She was huge, even bigger than the one we were watching.

As we went back to the van our guide said we were lucky to have 3 turtles come up with a 100ft of each other. Some nights the watchers would have to go up and down the beach for a mile or so.  The sand was soft and that would have been very tiring.  Even so we were beat from the little beach walking and the ride and were ready to head home.  We loaded up and made the trip back, arriving back to Makai around 11:15PM.  We raised the dinghy, showered, and to bed for us after an interesting and very educational evening!

Myth buster:  Christopher our guide said that the turtles do not always go back to the same beach as they were born.  This what we have been taught and told all of our lives.  There have many recorded instances (turtles are tagged) of turtles nesting 100's of miles away in Venezuela or Guyana.  They may do this then go to another beach.  This is good as it helps with mixing the genes to other groups.

Next trip is an overnight to the Asa Wright Bird Sanctuary.

15/4:  Even in Paradise taxes must be done.  We have finished our taxes but it took a while to get all of the paperwork.  We had sent them up so that Suzy could carry them from Washington DC to save the expense delivery to Venezuela, they didn't make it in time.  So she came without them. 

Wind-Borne III's daughter, Kelly, was coming from Canada so we had Paul ship her the package.  It arrived one day after she left.  Since Rick and Carolyn were heading home for their Bell Canada Hero award they made arrangements to deliver the package to us in Trinidad.  We finally got it!!  Thanks guys we owe you big.

13/4:  We finished up the work on Makai and they splashed us early.  It felt good to get in the water, though it is a bit rolly during the day.  Our Turtle viewing trip has been delayed as the tour operator Jesse James' father-in-law passed away and they are closed until after the funeral.  Our wished go out to them and their family.

9/4:  We hauled for a short 5 days.  Inspected the damage and to our relief it is a lot less than first appearances.  We will spend the next few days rebuilding the damaged areas and working on some other small problems while the boat is on the hard.

7/4:  Well now that we are in Trinidad, only several months later than we thought.  We missed Carnival, Pan concerts (steel drums), and some friends.  Because of the incident in Laguna Grande with the coral and the petrified wood we are arranging to haul at Peakes.  The haul will be for 5 days and in that time we need to repair the keel, fix a couple of leaky thru hulls, maybe add a new one for the water maker, replace the zincs, and change the transmission oil.  Possibly sleep if there is time.

Noted earlier this is a commercial harbor.  Not at all like a postcard picture.  There are large and small boats being worked on, shipping traffic, and loads of local fishing boats zipping in and out.  We have heard sandblasting so loud that a rock concert is quieter.  Though we are looking forward to sightseeing I can't wait to get back to the out islands.

Currently docked for repairs is a oil platform.  We haven't heard what they will be doing to it yet but it looks brand new. 

2/4:  First impressions of Trinidad.  The harbor is a commercial harbor with an anchorage in the middle.  There are big shipyards and a small container off loading dock.   It is very noisy and with locals zipping through the anchorage it is very bumpy.  Porlamar (or rollymar) is smoother.  But at least at night it quiets down. 

We have a new island with new rules and traditions to learn about.  I was just getting used to speaking Spanish and listening to their accents.  Here I think they speak English but with the accent I am not sure.  We also don't know anyone here.  We will have to meet a whole new group of people.  Sharon announced our arrival on the morning net.

1/4: No joke we made it!   Well after a pounding 20.5 hour up wind slog we made it to Trinidad.  We departed Los Testigos at 3:30PM Thursday afternoon and headed east.  It was a shame to go as this was a beautiful Caribbean island.  The reason we are out here.  Unfortunately the weather said now or it may be a couple of weeks to go.  So we went.

The slog up wind with waves hit 7 feet plus and choppy 3 footers made for a noisy wet ride.  We had to beat north east as the winds we a bit SE.  We sailed out past the last island before turning south.  The wind was not being very helpful so we ended up sailing below our intended route or the rhumb line. I had hoped with the wind predictions we would have been able to hold a course direct for Trinidad.  But it wasn't so. 

Our VMG or velocity made good was also reduced as we had to run against a 2-3 knot current coming on our nose.  It slowed our forward speed down by 2 knots.  this and the wind reduced our speed at most times to 3.9 to 4.5 knots on average.  Way slow.  We usually cruise around 6-8knots. The wind and the slow speeds caused us to tack a few times and in a 105 nm trip it adds 50% to the distance travel verses the distance made good.  Though we are out of practice we quickly fell into the 3-4 hours ON/OFF as we worked our way up wind to our destination.

We pulled into the Customs dock at 1PM and went to clear in.  Filled out the usual paper work, answered the usual questions until they saw the cats declared.  The Customs guy's eyes lit up.  See in Trinidad they are freakishly worried about rabies.  If you need to see a vet they must come to the boat.  I gave them the Rabies certification and they relaxed a bit but reminded me that the cats must stay on the boat!

After clearing we went and picked up a YSATT mooring.  (Yacht Services of Trinidad and Tobago - They help ensure quality service and workmanship of all their members.) We had pizza at Joe's and were in bed out by 7PM.  We were beat from the long bouncy ride.  I would hate to be in a slow leaner...some monohulls we know would have had another 12 hours of beating before making it here.

May-05

Location as of  12/05/05, Bequia, Grenadines [13 00.582 N 061 14.43 W ]

28/5: Well after 2 weeks we finally got our FEDEX package.  Frangpanni Yacht services had kept saying that had not received the package.  After visiting there office and the FEDEX stop everyday for the last couple of weeks we finally were able to track down the package.  It was signed for on the 17th but the office was closed most of the time.  We had stopped by several times but it wasn't there. 

I had the Hotel manger open the Yacht office and there it was right on top. I think they had it laying around and finally got around to sorting it and putting it out.  Because of this delay we are running out of sailing season north of the hurricane belt at 12.5 degrees North.  Makai and her crew will start to meander south before heading back to Venezuela.  We should be there mid July. 

We will be out of touch for 5- weeks, but don't be afraid to email. It will give us something to look forward to in PLC.

11/5:  Well, we had the longest hop yet since leaving Trinidad:  4 whole hours! We left Canoun this morning just before 8:00 and were eating lunch here in Bequia.  We are going to hang out in Bequia for at least a week.  The diving here is supposed to awesome and we are going to check out some of the local sights.

Location as of  9/05/05, Tobago Cays [12 37 N 061 21 W ]

09/5: Well we spent 2 nights in the Tobago Cays and did lots of swimming and snorkeling.  We saw lots of hawksbill turtles munching on the sea grass.  We also got to watch a bunch of rays rooting around for supper.  The coolest was the spotted eagle ray.  He had a tail almost 6 feet long! 

Today we are heading over to Canoun.  Another short hop, we are definitely getting spoiled by these islands being so close. 

07/5:  We enjoyed our stay in Salt Whistle.  We swam from the boat to soft white sand beach every day.  The  resort here has a bread delivery service in the mornings.  We bought baguettes the first day, but never again!  The bread was fresh baked and wonderful but the prices were outrageous.  $20EC for 2 baguettes - that's over $7 US.  I decided that baking my own bread wasn't too laborious after all. 

Did a little treasure hunting along the beach and found another $1EC.

We are heading to the Tobago Cays next.

03/5:  We checked out of Hillsborough this morning and sailed over to Union Island to check in to Grenadines.  This took all of 3 hours.  We felt like we just barely raised anchor before we were anchoring again. We are used to long overnight passages and thought it was quite a treat to be able to go from 1 country to another in such a short hop.

After checking into the Grenadines we raised anchor again to see the sights of Mayreau.  We headed to Salt Whistle Bay but when we got there, could not find a spot to anchor!  It was packed full of charter boats and a megayacht.  We decided to turn back and anchor at Saline Bay for the night and try Salt Whistle in the morning after some of the charters left. 

Whew, what a stink at Saline bay.  There are public restrooms on the beach, but I don't think they have been emptied or cleaned for a month.  All night long the breeze carried in the malodorous scent from the beach.  Needless to say we did not sleep well and moved first thing in the morning.

We went for a walk into town and went to the top about 1000 ft up.  We saw some great views and were amazed at the locals houses.  Most were smaller than our boat.  There we met a group on a charter boat at Dennis' New Hideaway.  Julie and Molly are on a trip around the world. Not by boat but by plane.  They are traveling to various countries and getting boats to sail and sight see.  One day they hope to get a boat of their own to cruise!  We only had one piece of advice 'When you find the boat you like, get the next size larger!'.

3/5:  After clearing out from Hillsbourgh we traveled over Petite St Vincent.  It was a quick trip.  We anchored in the lee of the island in 10 ft of clear blue and turquoise water.  There many charter boats around us, but it was ok.  After lowering the dinghy we went tithe the island to sight see and relax.  This island is owned by a resort so we were limited to where we could go.  We walked up the restaurant overlooking the bay and order a juice and a local beer.  It felt strange as we were surrounded by pasty white tourists and charter boat sailors.  (I like Venezuela and Bonaire, no charter boaters!). 

We enjoyed the view and got ready to pay the tab and it was $9US for 2 drinks.  In Venezuela we bought and excellent dinner for 2 including drinks, and dessert with tip for that price.  I don't know how cruisers can afford it here.  We will be eating and drinking more on the boat as we visit the island going north.  We have not even hit the expensive islands yet!

Location as of  2/05/05, Hillsbourgh Bay, Carriacou, Grenadines [12 29 N 061 27 W ]

02/5: We hung around Hillsborough and Sandy Island for several days.  Sandy Island is a picturesque little sandy bar rather than a true island.  It's really peaceful with clear water and wonderful beaches.  The only problem we had at Sandy Island was the over abundance of charter boats coming in and out.  We spent our time snorkeling and treasure hunting.  Sharon was the first to make a find.  1 Eastern Caribbean dollar or about 33 cents US.  I also found 1 EC.  At this rate we will be millionaires by the time we are 400 years old!

We moved over to Tyrell Bay.  It was quite crowded by our standards so we decided not to hang out for long.  We did get a chance to catch up with Gary and Lois of Calico Clam.  It's always nice to chat w/ friendly faces.  They are heading back south as we go against traffic northward.  Next stop Grenadines.

Jun-05

Location as of  ??/06/05-Somewhere in the Caribbean Sea

Some time in June?? Makai raised anchor so that we would arrive just after sunrise the next day.  Off we went with no wind so the iron gennys were started.  Sharon deployed her fish lines and we settled down for the ride.  It was almost a perfect trip;  very quiet, little traffic, and good weather.  We made it to the Testigo's before sunrise.  As we slowly sailed up to the islands we decided that Margarita is only 8 hours away so we decided to just continue.  We popped the screetcher and started cranking away.  Several leaners left the island just a head of us.  We started over taking boats and having a great sail. 

We heard Panda chatting with another boat in the convoy so we hailed them and said Hola.  We chatted for a few minutes as we sailed past.  Out here the VHF and SSB radio is our way of socializing.  We talk fairly regularly with people we have never met.  Everyone shares information and is willing to help because we are all in the same boat.

The sail was fast and fun.  While moving along at about 7 knots Sharon had a hit on the fishing rod.  We slowed the boat and she began to reel. Crank and pull, crank and pull and after about 20 minutes she finally got the fish to the boat.  We gaffed him and brought it aboard.  It was a 45 inch King Mackerel.  We are going to eating well for days.

We finally made it into Porlamar, Margarita.  We have been here before and this a usually a very rolly uncomfortable place.  I don't know why so many people like it here.  We anchored and chatted with Calico Clam and ran our garbage ashore.  While ashore we ran into WindWitch. 

Venezuela has a rule that after 18 months a boat must leave for 45 days or pay import duty. (for about 500 US you can 'buy' your extension). They don't care if you check into anther country just as long as you check out.  So many people check out and go to Margarita without checking in there and wait the 45 days then go back to PLC and check back into Venezuela, this resets the clock.  There are many out islands and backwater places to go hang out while the 45 day clock tics.

Makai left Porlamar and headed to Cabagua for the night and then into Laguna Grande in the Gulfo de Caricao to relax for a while.  We also planned on going to Madrigal Village and to see the Scarlet Ibis.  We spent a lot of time hanging around Laguna Grande.  This area is a semi-desert mountainous area.  There are some fishing villages. Here the local live a subsistence level life.  Cruisers bring in some variety with gifts and trade goods.  We swapped rice and dried plums for some fish and local fruit.

Much of the time is spent looking at the sights, reading, and some small boat projects.  I took the opportunity to climb one of the peaks and do a ridge walk.  This climb doesn't follow a travel or path.  First had to locate a wash that cut through the jungle of trees, various cactus, and vines.  The beginning of the walk was easy as I worked my way through this jungle, but as the base of the mountain got closer the washes got narrow and had to climb and hack my way around.  Finally broke out of the wash on to one of the legs of rock running down from the top. After reaching the first peak it was time for a break.  Cruising is a very sedentary life style.  The longest walk on our boat is about 40 feet, I have already gone several tough miles over uneven terrain.  I was beat, but after a quick rest it was time to start climbing upward.  the walk started a 40 degrees, then 60, finally at several thousand feet up it went almost vertical.  I need to rest, whew!!! I am out of shape.  The view was spectacular and I was not even at the top.  After another rest and decision on whether to continue that a last hundred yards up a rocky face, I finally went to the top.  The view was superb.  To the North I could see Margarita, Cubagua, Coche Islands 25 miles way and to the south Laguna Grande, Gulfo de Caricao, and the mountains on the Venezuelan Mainland.

The view at the top was grand.  I placed a rock on top of the cairn and then started east across the ridges.  I spotted a different route that looked easier and more direct.  Down I went.  Finally made it down to the lower levels and started looking for a way out through the jungle of cactus.  I made several forays in before having to turn back as the routes I picked disappeared or spider webs with very large ugly spiders blocked my path (Venezuela has several poisons spiders) requiring me stop back track to the start and look for a new route. 

More and more forays and many trips up to try to spot a route was making me tired and bit concerned.  Though I had a machete with me the cacti are dense and have long sharp needles and the brush has needles as well. Short of a huge effort it would have been almost impossible to hack a mile long path through this thick jungle. I had to stop many times to pluck needles from my legs, arms, and back.   Finally with the sun beating down, several rest breaks a path appeared that looked promising and after about a half hour of hiking the end appeared.  Wearily I walked to the dinghy and headed home...beat to my toes, sore from walking and climbing and full of pricks from the cactus and other vegetation.   I can now understand what it must of been like for early explorers who traveled to areas with little or no human habitation and had to make all of there own trails.

We cruised over to the East end of the Gulfo with Panda to see the Scarlet Ibis. People have told us the trees are red with these birds.  We dinghied up to the head and found path into the mangroves.  We continued up for a few miles watching the Heron and other birds and fowl.  Finally as the sun stated to go down we drifted back down to the bay and through out the anchors and waited, and waited, and waited. Panda decided to run out further to see what they could find.  They eventually found some and signaled us over.  We got there and drifted in.  There were several trees with the Ibis and we got pretty close.  They are a brilliant red, the color comes from the tree crabs and such that they eat.  The red is so brilliant it looks like a Disney Technicolor picture and looks fake. 

With the sun setting we headed home.  We anchored of a small town.  Unfortunately it was a nationally holiday and the bands and  discos we cranking the music.  It was LOUD!  The whole town lost power and the music stopped, but after and hour it came back on.  bummer.  They finally quit about 3AM.  I thought we were in the boonies but I guess the boonies have discos too.

The next morning we moved over to Madrigal Village to relax.  We met Jean-Mark, had dinner one night and BBQ the next.  The food was good the resort was nice and the people fun.  The trust here is amazing, he sets up a tab and you just serve yourself.  Get a beer put it on the tab, make a rum & coke and put it on the tab.  Jean-Mark says that he almost never has problems with this arrangement.  We swapped some books and Sunday morning we went into the vegetable market. We bought 2 pineapples, bananas, cabbage, coffee, Kool-Aid, hot sauce, and other stuff for about the same price as we paid for just 2 pineapples in Bequia. 

Thoughts:  Windward islands, St Vincent & Grenadines, Grenada, and Trinidad.  The islands were worth going to say I have been there and done that. The islands are very expensive, very, very crowded with charter boats and cruisers, and really not as nice as Bonaire or the Venezuelan out-islands.  Almost everywhere we went it was like going to Cape Cod on a summer holiday.  Packed.  Most of the charter boats and many captained boats were operated by incompetent and dangerous people.  Charter boats frighten me.  It is like giving a kid a loaded gun and telling him to go play army with the neighbors.  Some is going to get hurt.  We saw several incidents that made us edgy around them.

Two boats that ended up together after a charter boat ran over and hooked the rode of another boat.  The cruiser had to cast off an expensive anchor so the charter boat could get free.  Then they just left without helping the cruiser recover their anchor.

We couldn't wait to get away.  It was neat, but we will never go there as a destination again. It just isn't as nice as the magazines and cruising boats claim.  Maybe 20 years ago it was good but no longer.  The pristine beauty everyone talks about (travel agencies) is mostly gone.  Crowds, garbage, and hurricanes have ruined what used to be a great cruising destination.  IMO.

Jun-05

Location as of  ??/06/05-Somewhere in the Caribbean Sea

24/6: Paul, don't read this line until your birthday.  HAPPY BIG 40th BIRTHDAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Welcome to the club!

Jul-05

29/7:  Sharon and I are off to Caracas and Colonial Tovar for the next five days.  The tour is for 6 of us, Suzy & Dave from 'Ariel', Jennifer from 'Always Sunday', Nancy from 'Always Saturday'.  Colonial Tovar is a German village that started a hundred years ago in the lower Andes where we will spend a few days. Caracas is the capital of Venezuela, where we will tour and see the Venezuelan National Symphony, the Caribe Factory, and St Teresa Rum distillery.

24/07: Last night El Ancla hosted a farewell BBQ for 'WindBorne III'.  We gathered with the Mary-Ellena and Roberto, the owners, 'Calico Clam', and us with other cruiser stopping by to wish them well. They are heading east towards the Gulfo de Cariaco and then Trinidad and the up island in the Windwards.  It will be a long time before we cross wakes again.  But we will see them in November for a special event.

After 12 years Sharon and I will be getting married here in Venezuela.   It will be a low key affair as cruiser we don't have the big budgets.  But it should be fun (for Sharon anyway).  

*For those of you who know us well - no Bil didn't propose, I wore him down to his breaking point! Sharon 

22/7:  Side by Side has agreed to sublet his slip.  We are now jammed in gunnels to gunnels.

10/07:  We spent yesterday saying hello and catching up with everyone.  It was fun.  Even in paradise the boat work doesn't stop.  Pickled the water maker and began the list of work to be done:

Remove port engine raw water pump-leaking; clean fuel tanks; build up galley floor; clean out head and holding tanks; provision; clean; wax deck and polish stainless-steel and am sure will find more that needs to be done.

Due to last year's hurricane season many cruisers who were staying Grenada or Trinidad have decided that PLC is a better option.  There are so many boats here that Bahia Redonda has overbooked prepaid customers.  They are trying to jam us all in.  We are docked 4th from the last slip.  It is about 1/3 mile walk to the restaurant.  Tony on Side by Side may sublet us his spot.  They will be gone until September.  We should be out of here by then.

09/07: Well it has been an interesting couple of months.  Our last update was in Bequia, St Vincent and the Grenadines. Since then Makai has traveled from the Windwards back to Venezuela.  After clearing out at Union Island we motored around the west side and dropped anchor in Chatham By.  This was a quiet (very few charter boats) bay surrounding by mountains on three sides.  We prepared for a 20 hour run to Los Testigo's.

Aug-05

25/8:  Things have been moving along quietly and with somewhat of a routine.  Tuesday night dinner and a violin & classical guitar player (he is 1st chair of the symphony), Thursday night movie night, and Sunday dominos.  In all of this excitement  some of the projects were completed.  Cleaned the fuel tanks, fun, built a sub-floor to raise the galley.  We are short or to be PC 'altitude impaired'. 

Sorry about all the boring details of our life, but this is all so we can get ready to head to Los Roques, Los Aves, and Bonaire to dive.  We are looking forward to Seeing Natural Selection and some others out that way and to get some diving in.

Finally got Orinete Canvas to stop by for the estimate.  They do awesome work, but you have to stay on them.  They did our side skirts for about 2,500 dollars less than the US and the quality was just as good.   But like everything here it is manana.

2/8:  There are many great things about visiting other countries.  You have the opportunity to see and learn some history while seeing the sights.  Along with Suzy & David from 'Aryil', Jennifer from 'Always Sunday', and Nancy from 'Always Saturday' we decided to take a 5 day Jaime tour to Caracas and Colonial Tovar.  The tour was to include a trip to the Santa Teresa Rum distillery, a historical tour of Caracas the capital of Venezuela, Avila Magica, and the Venezuelan National Symphony.  After 2 days we were to head over to Colonial Tovar.  Well things don't always go as planned........

Day 1: We all met with Jaime at 8AM where we loaded up on a very nice Mercedes bus for the 5 hour drive.  We made several stops along the way to see a chapel, get bananas, and just to check out the sights.  The main road between PLC and our destination is a 2 lane road in need of maintenance, sort of reminded me of driving around Washington DC.  The sights were interesting, especially the 4 lane highway (can't drive on it et though) that will connect Caracas to PLC.  It has been under construction for 20 years!!!!(And we thought the DC Beltway was bad...)  The government votes the money to pay for the work and it gets redirected in the pockets of the politicians.  Corruption is a way of life here.

The first stop was to have been the Caribe factory.  With traffic we were late.  It being a Friday and the end of the month the tour was cancelled.  Everyone disappears after being paid!  So off to the hotel.  We headed to the El Conde Hotel right next to the Venezuelan Congressional buildings.  It reminded me of a Motel 6 with elevators and that became the joke of the week.  Our room only had a few cable channels, 'Aryil's' room toilet leaked, and the "weekend girls" room overlooked the guys peeing and sleeping in on the street.  NIICCCEEEE!! right!

We stopped a glass factory where Venetian style glass was made.  It is impressive to watch master craftsman make glass flowers, bowel, and figurines.

Day 2:  Had breakfast and went to  Avila Magica.  This is a cable car ride to the top of the mountains around Caracas.  It was a good thing Sharon and I had been there before because with the clouds surrounding us it was like walking in the fog.  We came down and made it back to the hotel where we proceeded on the walking tour of the downtown. Jaime led us around to the sights and we learned about Venezuelan history and one of its most important figures;  Simon Bolivar.  He led the fight to free Latin America from the Spanish and was incredibly successful.  Though he died a pauper as he spent all of his family money for the fight.  People from France and the US will recognize Simon.  He was a central figure in 3 important revolutions of his time. The French Revolution, Latin America Revolution, and the United States Revolution.  This guy liked to fight for freedom. 

Jaime showed us the Mayoral palace, congress, and some museums.  Because of a protest everything was closed.  The protests here are not like the US.  The Guardia (army) come out in full riot gear. Though it was several blocks away, all of the roads were closed and we saw some black smoke down the way, not good.  The downside was everything was shut down because of this.  While at the Simon Bolivar Monument we saw the changing of the guard.  There are 4 soldiers who stand by the monument.  They are in Colonial style outfits and like the guard at the Buckingham palace in England, they do not move.  We watched the support people adjusting their clothes and wiping their brows will on vigilance.

Saturday evening we took the subway (20 cents) to see the Venezuelan National Symphony (5,000bs or 2 dollars US).  The hall was superb and they were as good as any I have heard from DC.  The played Chopin and we thoroughly enjoyed it, unfortunately Sharon wasn't feeling well and stayed at the hotel.

Day 3:  We were supposed to go take a tour of the Santa Teresa Rum Distillery but the road collapsed due to the heavy rains.  Several people were killed and a bulldozer was lost, we weren't going to the test the rum today.  It was decided to pack up a Toyota land cruiser with our luggage and the 8 of us (actually jam us in) including the driver and head up to Colonial Tovar.  Unfortunately the AC didn't work and only one window rolled down.  So we began our 2 hour trip up into the mountains.

We stopped to take a break at El Junquito a small town famous here for it sausage and smoked meats.  We stretched our legs and viewed the sights.  Off course we were also the object of curiosity.  This is a place where the locals go not too many foreigners.  After the rest we headed up to Tovar.

Colonial Tovar is a German village in the mountains.  For over a hundred years it was completely isolated and not exposed to the rest of Venezuelan culture.  The government finally forced the people to accept a road built to the town.  It lowly became a tourist site as curious locals would go see the town right out of German in the midst of the Venezuelan Andes.  It does look just like pictures of the Black Forest.

The hotel Bergland overlooked the town and had a spectacular view, the rooms were awesome and they were only 32 US a night with breakfast included.  We ate and toured the town.  This area is also known for its strawberries, so Fresca con crema (Strawberries w/ whip cream) was the order of the day.

Day 4: Sunday morning after breakfast we relaxed and prepared to take the 6 wheel drive tour up the mountains to see the Indian petroglyphs.  This is true off roading driving on the edge of the mountains without guard rails or much of a road for that matter.  We stopped and walked out to see the petrogylphs.  It is pretty amazing to be able to walk up and look and touch them.  Unfortunately the government doesn't protect them and some disappear or are damaged as people walk all over them to see the carvings and to look out over the valleys.

After the glyphs we visited a local German brewery where Tovar ale is made.  The original settlers here had their priorities for no more than 3 months before the first building went up and the brewery was put into service.  Paul you would like it here!  We then spent time shopping and eating as the rain poured from the sky.  It is the rainy season after all and it did rain.  Because the town is on the side of a mountain the roads are very steep. 30% or more grades.  It was wild to see the rivers run down the streets and to watch the locals racing up and down through the water.  We finally headed back to the hotel to rest and get ready for dinner. 

Day 5:  We left on a small bus and headed down the mountain.  The bus raced down the twisty streets passing cars, motorcycles and people.  What a ride.  We got back to Caracas and drove to the Caribe factory.  We stopped in the largest Barrio in Latin America for lunch.  Here the poor people live pilled up on top of the mountains and the rich live in the low lands.  Quite different the US.

The Caribe factory was where our dinghy was handmade. These are some of the best in the world.  The group was met by, Bruno, the president and owner of the company.  He said we were the first organized cruiser group to tour the factory.  His son, a professional basket ball player, led us on the tour.  He took us through the work area.  This was not a US style tour. The workers had to stop or move so we could get through.  The tour showed us building a dinghy from just strips of neoprene to the fiberglass moulds to the Research and Development area.  We even got to see a prototype of a new line they are starting.  We were all very impressed with the quality control and really understood why the dinghies last so well.  As a parting gift we were presented with something all dinghies owners need, a repair kit.  They cost 50-60 dollars each if you can even get them here.

After the tour is was time to head to the Executive bus terminal to get our 6 hour ride home.  The trip cost 34,000 bs or 14 dollars. It was a first class bus.  We finally made t back home at 11:30 PM.  We rolled into bed and slept!

1/8: HAPPY BIRTHDAY Rich!  Hope you had a great day!

Sep-05

26/9:  We are sitting in Bonaire on the moorings.  It feels great to be back but there are changes in paradise.  Many cruisers are now having a difficult time getting checked in through immigration.  One boat Mandolin was refused entry. Part of it was their fault as they didn't get an exit stamp in the passports from Venezuela.  they used an agent but that didn't help.  the second boat had all of the proper paper work but was denied as it took to long to come from Puerto la Cruz to Bonaire.  The local immigration said it should take just a couple of days.  there is a battle with the Police department check ins and Immigration... more to follow.

Our trip from PLC was quick with an extra day in Crasqui in the Roques.  We sailed up from Chimana Segunde to Tortugas and anchored.  Then it was a 100 mile overnight run to Grand Roques.  The winds were up and it was a bit rough but we may good time.  about midnight the Guardia Coastal called us to check us out as we were just skirting a restricted zone.  OK we caught the corner.  They were polite and professional and spoke very good English.  Sharon thinks they were bored.

We made such good time we had to slow up to arrive at the entrance in day light.  We started to work our way in and still was not  able to sight the entrance.  So we backed out and went around.  If I thought of this earlier we could have saved time.  Oh Well.

We cruised over to Crasqui and anchor.  It was the weekends and the RICH Venezuelans were there with their mega yachts.  IT was very windy 30 plus knots, so we decided to hangout here until it settled.  Finally after 2 days got a good wind and took off west.  After 2 years we were able to use our genaker. 

Captain Bil the Solera pirate!  AARRGG!

5/9:  We still are in the process of prepping for departure on Wednesday.  Copying DVD's (great ripper program), collecting books, and food.

Both of our cameras are dead.  Sorry Phil, the Sony took awesome pics while it lasted we will miss it and our new Nikon is having problems as well!  The life of a cruiser, something is always broken!

7/5: I was invited to Venezuela's first international large displacement motorcycle show and rally by Raphael and his wife Lura.  This was going to be interesting as I seen very few big bikes here, but lots of little ones.  Raphael picked me up and we headed over to the grounds, like everywhere finding parking was a problem, but we did and walked into the grounds.

We were hit up by an entry fee of 10,000 bs or about 4 bucks.  As we walked in it seemed very dark.  Like everything in Venezuela nobody seemed to notice that the lights/power was all out.  We still managed to find the cervaza.  Unlike the US here they don't gouge the party goers.  Beer was actually cheaper here than most restaurants and stores.  About 1,000 bs per bottle or 40 cents.  Raphael and Laura were getting 2 at a time  to my one and going back for refills.  5 beers for 2 dollars.

The was a very good 60-70 rock band and they sang in English as  the crow followed along.  Most don't speak English.  The second band, the Impalas (formerly of the US) played my favorite oldies in Espanol. 

The lights finally came on and we were able to se the sights.  There were a lot of new Goldwings and sport bikes, some Harleys.  It was strange, not a single chopped or custom and even the cruisers were stock. The people are different here.  The American bike class includes Hondas made in America.  Harley guys wear Honda stuff and vise versa and nobody puts other down for not riding their brand.  Everyone seemed to have fun, drink, party, ride, and not a single fight.  I was never at a show in the US with out several problems.  By the end of the night about a 1000 bikes showed up.

 Everyone loves American Indian dream Catchers and Harley clothes.  It is strange to see the pervasiveness of America in another country.  We drank beer and snacked on American style Hot Dogs and burgers, with the exception of the language I felt like I was a t rally at home.  Weird.  The bikers here more friendly and will joke and mix with other brands making it more of a rider rally rather my brand against yours.

11:30PM time to head home.  It was WAY past my bedtime, I stumbled in bed thinking of another time in my life where I lived on motorcycles......but that is another story! 

Sharon Enjoying dinner at Al Ancla.

Bil and the Solera Girl,  Richard eat your heart out!

Oct-05

27/10:  Had dinner with Wind Pony and Wind Machine last night.  We had met them in Bequia and spent sometime with them through the Tobago Cays.  Dick had his 60th birthday and we celebrated with them at Casa Blanca our engagement. The restaurant heard we were celebrating and gave us a great bottle of champagne for the party.

Weather still is not looking to good.  Tropical storm Beta is now causing problems with the winds and rain.  Now shooting for Sunday departure.

25/10:  Did our first night dive to look at the coral spawning.  Linda from Natural Selection was our dive master.  We prepared and went over in the dark.  We sank to the bottom about 50 feet down and started looking for spawning.  Nothing.  It is supposed to occur during these months about 3 days after the full moon.  I guess they weren't reading the book.  So we ended up swimming up the wall and back just looking at the different fish and creatures that come out at night.

We did have a5 foot tarpon come play.  He buzzed by us looking for things we stirred up with the lights.  He cruised into us, over, and under so close and so often we had to start pushing him out of the way just to continue the dive.  All in all it was fun!

25/10: Finally came back out to the moorings.  We were surprised when we cleared out of the marina.  Things in Bonaire have doubled.  The moorings are $10 US a day and the marina went from $15 to 31 US a day without water and electricity, ouch! Many of the cruisers are staying in the marina but with the blood suckers, both the marina and the flying kind we thought that it would be better out here.

We found out that Buddy Dive lost their dock.  It was taken by the swells.  A few of the local beaches were washed out to sea.  So they were doing pickups in the marina.  Made for a busy rush hour trying to get out.  Freestyle helped us cast off.

We are planning on heading out Friday night for a run to the Los Aves.  We are still waiting for the zincs which Budget Marine order 6 weeks ago.  Though we need them we will have to leave with out them and try to find some in PLC.  We chatted with Magic Dragon on the SSB and they are waiting for us in Barlovento. From there we will head to Roques and then to Tortugas before PLC.

COMMENTARY: We have met the ugly American and they are from Long Island, New York.  Though there is another nationality as a group we have learned to despise, but that is another long set of stories.  This Cruiser believes that everything for a cruiser should be theirs for the taking, they constantly stir up trouble that impacts other cruisers.  Not just here but on many other islands.  We have met this cruiser  many times before and they are the first people I have ever heard of getting a standing ovation upon leaving an island from other cruisers.  The amazing thing that everywhere we have been in the Caribbean we have met other cruisers who have the same types of stories about this one boat.  It is a small world and things get around.

Cruising is not about making everybody bow down to you and do it your way because that was they you did it at home.  As guests in another country we have a learning experience to see how the locals do things. Guests in another country or someone's home have responsibilities to the hosts. 

These cruisers who are also divers signed up with a resort to get refills and use the facilities.  This usually includes an equipment and a shower rinse station. As a guest if you are requested not to take full showers at the dive rinse station. These cruisers brought shampoo and soap and started taking full blown showers at the rinse station. They were asked not to shower and then asked again by the resort manager not to shower.  So they started sneaking in after hours to shower and carrying away water.  Finally  the manager said no more cruisers.  Gave them there money back and told them to leave. 

Luckily a local ex pat cruiser talked with the manager and explained that one bad apple should not ruin it for the rest.  The manager agreed and gave the trouble makers their money back and told them never to return.  Some people just don't learn and they went through the same thing again at a second resort and were asked to leave.  This is what give cruisers a bad name and the reason why so many people and countries are not to excited about having us visit.

Sorry about my soapbox, Elvis has left the building.

24/10: Weather in Bonaire can be scary.  We had a surprise wind reversal yesterday morning and lots of rain.  Middle afternoon the Harbor master came on and announce 6 foot swells were hitting Curacao.  This is only 45 miles to the west of us.  Tatoosh Paul Allen's 325 foot mega yacht did a recall and they prepared to leave the dock in 2 hours.  I chatted with Amorita and then went in to the marina.  After seeing the swells starting we decided to head in for a slip.

We dropped the tent and cast of lines and made for the marina.  The swells were already starting to come in and it made backing into the slip a problem.  With John's help from Spartivento we managed to get in and secured.  It wasn't pretty but no damage done. Then everyone followed us.  For the next several hours we helped other tie up as the marina squeezed boats in where ever.  Carlos of the HBV did a great job with out panic or rush.

The sundowners that were planned for the night before but were canceled due to just being tired from the dive were brought to life on Makai.  Natural Selection, Nirvana, Amorita, Pizzazz, Freestyle, and Destiny came over and we had a Swell party.  While the boat bounced around in the slip we chatted and ate and had some adult beverages.  I finished off my bottle of Santa Teresa's 1796 Rum, excellent stuff!

22/10:  Linda and Chili decided that we should go for a Saturday dive.  We loaded up their truck along with Nirvana and headed out to do a locals dive at the rock.  This is an unmarked location and is off the tourist spot.  Karen was still having problems clearing her ears and Sharon was having difficulty with her new mask stayed close to shore.  Chili, Linda, John, and I headed out from the shore to make the dive.  My original plan was not to go to more than a 100 feet.  Chili spotted a Sargasum Trigger Fish at 137 feet and I made a trip to see him.  They are only found at depths and this was a treat.  I spent 2 minutes at that depth before working my way back up to 70 feet.  137 is now the deepest dive.

We retired for lunch to do our surface interval before the next splash.  We celebrated Chili's birthday over burgers.  After eating and getting fresh tanks we headed out to Marget Bay for the second dive.  Another shore dive.  We walked out into the water across broken coral and sharp rocks loaded with urchin. We had to relay in and out.

This is a wall dive and we kept to 60 feet.  Even at that depth there was plenty to see.    A 6 foot Tarpon cruised by.  We know these guys don't eat people , but sometimes when they are eyeing you begin to wonder.

19/10:  Our time in Bonaire is coming to an end.  Next week we will look for a weather window to head to the Aves.  This harder than it sounds.  First the trade winds are blowing east 15-20 knots and we want to go east.

18/10:  Living in paradise has it pitfalls.  We just learned that our friends on Kay Lara just sank.  They were in Curacao in Valentine Bay when they left during a storm and wind reversal.  It appears that they headed in the wrong direction and ran hard a ground.  The bottom was damaged and when it was floated back to the ocean it sank.  This horrible to hear as we all face this kind of problem as  it is also our home.  It was good no one was injured physically but the mind can be damaged with this kind of loss.  I hearts go out to them.

12/10:  We have been a little lazy in updating our logs.  Bonaire is a very laid back restful place most of the time.  But now is Regatta time and things are happening.  We are just a mooring or two away from the Yacht club and the start finish/line. During the day we watch the races from little optimists and sunfish to big open class racers.

Yesterday afternoon was the first real go fast race as the winds have been light due tot he wind reversal that has been going on for a few days. There has been a race around on the island which started at 0730 and finished at 2300.  The boats were moving at a breakneck speed of 1.7 knots.  It was amazing to see boats moving fairly quickly across the glass smooth water.  It must be nice to have an empty boat.  It would take us a bit more wind to get going with Makai loaded down.  We watched the finishers cross the line as we played rummycube with Paul and Suzette from Altair.

9/10: With the help of Paul from Altair, Sharon and I finished the wind generator install.  We had BCB make brackets and source our material.  The stainless tube here is twice the price of US, but we had to have it.  The metal shop is a fair walk and we had to make several trips to get material.  Good exercise, but hot.  This is a desert island. Of course as soon as we completed the install the wind died and has been dead for several days. 

Living on a boat makes one pay  more attention to the weather.  We had an ugly wind reversal along with a storm.  This means that the trades stopped blowing from the east and start to blow from the west.  Normally this isn't a problem but moorings in Bonaire are not in a protected harbor, but rather like be nestled up next to a boomerang with our backs facing the big blue sea.  Well t he winds came up to 40 knots and the waves rolled in from the sea with nothing to block them.  Makai swung around so the stern was pointed at the shore which is less than a 150 feet away and we started pounding into the seas.

 If the mooring lines fail we be blown onto shore before anything could have been done. We stood by the engines to take off immediately if the lines failed.  Luckily the winds ended almost as fast as they started and we just had to settle down and let the storm ride it self out.  We did mange to collect 30 gallons of water before the rain ended.

8/10:  Bonaire has changed its policy for immigration, because of all of the people that have abused it in the past.  IF you are coming from Venezuela then there will be problems, otherwise none.  The biggest problem is the rules aren't applied fairly.  Now immigration doesn't have the right to approve extensions but goes to the Lt Governor.  It takes a week and you must prove solvency with a bank or credit card statement.  They want to make sure that you can afford to leave the country and pay your debts.  But we are cleared in after the 50 trips (ok it wasn't that many, but it was a lot).

6/10: Finally received our KISS wind generator.  We chose this one because of the price, quality, output, and low noise. We have been next to some that sound like helicopters hovering over our heads.  I will have to get stainless tube for the mount and wire.  The builder doesn't recommend a regulator.  I am a little unsure of this, but having talked with others I will try it for a while.  Due to the size of our battery bank and the max output of 30 amps we should be able to dump power into our bank forever without damaging them.

18/11: We have had the Kiss up and running for a month now and it is awesome.  The combo of solar and wind gives us so much power that we use the water maker to take up the extra energy.  We now have all the water we can use and have started washing clothes strictly in fresh water rather than the initial salt water rinse.

The unregulated power has not been an issue but we are now leaving loads on all-night when it is windy to be sure we don't over charge.  We did shut it off during a squall when it was kicking out 20amps on a fully charged bank.  Unless it is running full out without a load the batteries do not over charge.  Under 15-20 knots winds it keeps the batteries topped off while the fridge and freezer run.

Nov-05

NOTE: Per a good suggestion from Keith we are re-arranging the web logs to make it easier to read.  They will be going in chronological order from top to bottom.  The months previous to November will be still in the old format, but starting with June at the top.  Thanks for the suggestions and your patience. Cap Bil.

5/11: Well we are on our way from Bonaire.  Wind Pony made some passage fudge which was a great treat as the passage was not.  We left Bonaire about the sounds of horns and calls wishing us a good trip.  We needed all of the positive energy.  We beamed reached to the south east corner of Bonaire before heading up.  the water was smooth and we were cursing at a comfy 8 knots.  Then we rounded the corner.  The swells were 6-7 feet on the nose with winds 18-20 knots from the east.  We sailed all night making 4 very long tacks.  The ride was lumpy and bumpy ( and wet).  We were shooting to tack our way up to the Los Roques.  We bailed at Barlovento at sunrise.  We were whipped.

It is handy to have a fallout and it worked out.  Unfortunately, we got trapped in Barlovento with the weather and winds we were hoping to beat.  We had been here before and really wanted to anchor somewhere we had never been like the Cayo de Aqua in the Roques.  We recently read a Cruising World article about the quiet and desolate Venezuelan out islands, don't believe everything you read.  It made a good story but it was far from the truth.  There were 12 boats tucked in our anchorage and another 8 in the next.  We had a mega yacht and a 80 steel sailboat anchored near us.  Not so quiet, desolate, or lonely, but we were out of the weather anyway.

We laid over one day and decided to make a 30 mile run to the Roques.  We hauled anchor at 7 AM and headed out along with Cap De Long.  Even though we heard a bit of the weather we decided to tack south for 28 miles before tacking north to the islands.  The idea was to get behind the island to block the 6-7 foot swells once we got closer and to take advantage of the possible Northerly shift in the winds.  We got them and it helped keep us on our rhumb line course.  This shortens the tacks as it means we are head closer to our destination rather than sailing away to keep the wind.  We beat, bounced, splashed, and buried the bow a couple of times get to the islands.  9 hours we were done.

We skipped Caya de Agua as we understood it is rough to get into in weather and we had plenty of the that so we headed over to Carsqui.  It was loaded with Cruisers.  Kind of like old home week.  We chatted with Wombat who had been monitoring NoneSuch and helping us on 4 meg as we are still having SSB problems.  Trio invited us for drinks, and we finally got to say hola to Sylvia K.  We had been hoping to see them in Bonaire, but they were delayed as they thought they had to fly home to FL after Wilma went over their house.  Minimal damage.  Silver Sea, Excalibur, Ocura, and many others are here so we chatted.  Because we travel our own way we don't often buddy boat or see many of the people we know so this is fun and a great chance to catch up.

Tonight drinks on Wombat while we wait out this tropical wave.

6/11.  We have been sitting waiting for the weather to turn.  So what do cruisers do but get together.  We went and saw Trio for drinks after anchoring and Sundowners with Wombat of Sydney and Ocrua.  They toasted our soon to be wedding with some champagne they had on ice and we told stories as the sun went down and the rain tapered off.

More wind, rain, and thunderstorms predicted.  It is hard to get the weather when the ssb is on the fritz.  Luckily the others in the anchorage are passing info to us.

8/11: Cruising is about exposure and testing ones self while expanding your horizons.  Well we tested ourselves while everywhere there were 6-7 waves and an occasional 8-9 footer.  The wind and waves were piling up every where as we prepared to leave Crasqui, Grand Roques.  The weather was safe but the ride was going to be lumpy and bumpy.

We got up at 5Am made coffee and Sharon made breakfast and we raised anchor in the twilight.  We could just make the other boats against the white sand beach as we made our way out and around the island to head out south.  The weather was predicted to have a little North in the east winds which were supposed to drop down to 10-15knots.  Yeah right.  The wind was ESE and cranking 20 knots.  We ran into the wall of waves as we tacked north to clear the island chain before tacking south to our destination 168 nm away on a course of 142 degrees.

We made the turn as the sun rose and saw couple boats that were heading into the Roques, end of their trip and the start of ours.  It was lumpy and bumpy as we headed south.  Sailing can be long hours of crashing, splashing, and bashing as we made our way at 7 knots.  The waves hit us from the sides and a few rolled over the top.  We settled down to the routine of sleeping and trading of watches.  The first way point was 90 nm at Tortugas. We had planned 5 knots but made good time and arrived early at 10PM.  I haven't figure out how to write how tiring this travel is.  The closest I can think of is getting in a washing machine after sleeping for 2 or 3 hours every couple hours for the last 24 while trying to look around for other washing machines that may run into you.  Tough.

Somewhere around 4AM the wind died.  The downside was having to continue to run the engines, the upside was the waves laid down.  We motored the last 30 miles and made it to the channel entrance at 7AM.  Unfortunately the marina is not opened until 9.  So we dropped anchor and lowered the dinghy, put lines and fenders out, and chatted on the radio.  We finally got into a slip, unfortunately it was not the slip we paid for as there are 2 other boats in ours and we will have to wait for them to move.  This is annoying since we are out on the wall and we will have to bug the dock-master to get those boats out and us moved in.  IT will be a battle, but at least the cable works, wow TV.

11/11:  Tragic news.  We lost Biff our cat crew member due to liver failure.  He had been with us for 12 years and many miles.  From the morning meows for food, the company in the cockpit on passages, and his warm presence.  The problem appears to have started in Bonaire, he wasn't eating and we took him to the Vet.  The vet found a mass that could have been constipation or a tumor. We gave him kitty lax and it seemed to help some, but he still wasn't eating enough.  The Vet recommended and ultra sound when we got to Venezuela, as they don't have one in Bonaire.

Once we arrived Sharon went with Liberty to Galenos.  They did some blood tests and said they would contact us later via the taxi driver, that is a different nightmare story. We were told we need to bring him back immediately and we brought Biffers to the vet where he was put on an IV drip with fluids, antibiotics, and vitamins.  It seemed to help, but the Vet recommended surgery.  We agreed it was the only way.  Once he opened him up he found that his liver was gone. At best only had a few days and recommended to put him to sleep.  We agreed.

Biff had been a great companion, friend, and a comfort all around.  We will miss him greatly and there is a big hole in our lives.

15/11:  No much going on except Sharon working on making the arrangements for our wedding.  I have been doing what a good soon to be hubby should be doing and working on the boat and staying out of the way. 

Marina life is quite a change from being out on anchor.  Marinas are crowded and busy while being on anchor is quiet and relaxing.  We did miss dominos and since we have been back we played at Al Ancla, with Windmiller, and KaraDream.  It is the way most cruisers socialize.  We didn't learn how to play before but it is as almost as an important skill as navigating.  Almost everyone plays and it is a great way to meet and exchange info, beside being fun.

19/11:  The family will be getting this afternoon in Caracas.  They will be flying in from Washington DC, Maryland. California, and Singapore.  The amazing thing was that Sharon was able to arrange all of the flights so that they arrived within 20 minutes of each other.  First thing was getting there.  Jaime arranged the executive bus and we left at 7AM sharp for the 5 hour journey.  Victor our driver made good time and we actually arrived 3 hours early.  A first for Venezuela.

Since it was about lunch time and we were traveling internationally after all so we decide on lunch at one of the 3 restaurants.  Church's, Subway or Fridays.  So ate at Fridays.  I am glad we traveled all this way from the US of A to have these 3 choices.  We had lunch while we waited for the planes to land.  Finally everyone made it in without a problem.  We loaded everyone into the bus and headed back through the Venezuelan countryside.  We enjoyed the views and caught up with everyone. And of course slept.

We made it back to the Marina and the guard was supposed to have the keys to the pent house.  But guess what he did not!  We ended up having to run around to find the keys and then double everyone up with Richard staying on the boat.  The next morning the Guard returned the keys to Anne saying we never showed up.  Right!!!

Sunday started with breakfast of home made eggs benedict.  An Al Ancla specialty.  Then it was a day of relaxation in preparation for the trip to Angel Falls.  Jaime made the arrangements and we will be traveling with Jan and Mike of Significant Other, and Sarah and Walton of Double H for a total of 12.  We had the executive bus and the trip to Cuidad Bolivar was great.  (see Salto Angel for my first trip).  Because of the request for photos and details Salto Angel Part dos will be on a separate page.  I will just highlight some of the fun stuff here.

We saw pink dolphins in the Orinoco river,  Flew in a tail dragger across the Amazon to 5 degrees north of the equator in the middle of the continent,  walked behind a water fall that would took our breath away and would drag you away if you got caught in it, rode the canoes up river, hiked to the tallest water fall in the world, and had fun!!!!  Well most of us any way.

Salto Angel part Dos

26/11:  Well after a lot of work and preparation with tons of help from many of our Cruiser family and Jamie, Sharon and I are finally married. At 2:54 PM AST we were married by a Venezuelan Magistrate in a Venezuelan style civil ceremony.  We were seated at the table with Magistrate while she read the ceremony in Spanish.  At the appropriate time we said SI and the Magistrate was very impressed we responded in Spanish at the right time. Finally the Testigos or witnesses sign.  Some of our Venezuelan friends Oswaldo, Jaime, our Lawyer, and Rafael put there names in the book. We did the traditional crossing of hands and we were married.   The Magistrate then poured a handful of gold coins in mine and then I poured them into Sharon's hands.  This symbolizes wealth and prosperity.  With our great friends and family this will not be hard.  We already have it.

We stood through tons of photos and then moved downstairs to the restaurant for the reception.  We had a great time with dancing and Paul the best man giving a toast from Roger & Frankie on Infinity who couldn't make it as they were in Perth, Australia at their daughters wedding.  Paul also gave a toast and it was pretty good considering I didn't give him much time.  I was supposed to ask him while we were are Angel Falls, but that trip was a bit of trip.  See above soon.

Mary-Elena made the cake and the food and it was great.  We all ate and drank our fill.  Richard, my new brother in law bought some very nice Cuban cigars and I chose a Romeo and Juliet.  First one I have had in 18 months.  It was tasty.  Mean time Sharon  and her mom cut the dance floor up.  She will be feeling it tomorrow.

28/11:  There has been a second report of pirate attacks or as I call them scum bag criminals.  Pirate is too glamorous.  La Barracha just a few miles north west of Puerto LA Cruise a cruise was boarded by 3 men with guns.  They took 7K US and about 10,000US in equipment.  They appeared to come by pirogue from shore.  This is one of the first boarding we have heard of here in Venezuela with guns.

Last night 3 men with guns tried to board Anything Goes.  The captain prevented them with more firepower.  They left and swung back and did a drive by shooting.  Where as Anything Goes returned fire and then returned to marina.  They reported it to the local Policia and we will see what happens.

This is disconcerting as previously there had few gun toting criminals.  Now as more cruisers are carrying guns more criminals are starting to carry them as well.  It is starting to become like the Windward and Trinidad with all of the crime.  This will probably change our plans as when we leave we will head straight out to Blanquia rather than stop at Chimana Segunde our favorite little anchorage.

Dec-05

15/12:  Many who think of chucking it all and heading out here shouldn't forget cruising is not jut all sundowners and beaches.  BOAT stands for Broken Or All Tore-up and Break-Out Another Thousand.  Things are in a constant state of repair or maintenance.  My new brother in law carried down a lot of repair parts for me. After they left in the last week I have installed a replacement SSB  (ouch, big bucks), head conversion (no plumbers here), Drop and regrease the wind generator, 2 oil changes and engine inspections, locate replacement for failed fresh water pump, oil teak, and wax and clean boat.  In the US we just call or run down to our favorite stores and pickup what is needed to make the repairs.  Here it is a matter of running around to various  stores that don't advertise.  It is a case of you must know what they have to find out if they have it.  Finding the simplest things can be an effort.  But that is the burden we must bare!

24/12  Merry Christmas to all.

A few weeks ago we went to Los Altos, a local artists community in the mountains. We did the usual tours, but stopped at Pamela's small shop.  She works out of her house in a back room of a fairly rundown 500 square foot house.  She showed us some of her projects in mosaic floor tiles and we were very impressed.  So we asked about having one made for us.  we had a 20 by 40 Centimeter mosaic made for 120,000bs or less than 50 US.  (I sometimes feel like I am stealing from these people).  We asked for a sailboat or a palm tree with our boat name.

2 weeks passed and she came down and visited us on the boat and what we got was an absolute surprise.  It was an artists rendition of our boat card. Palm tree, mangroves, and sparkly water.  The detail is amazing.  All we can say is wow.  You couldn't touch a piece like this for less than several hundred dollars in the US.  This is a one off custom made for us, not picked out of a catalog or copied from someone else's.

We were expecting something a little more primitive.  We are now trying to figure out how to have a few more made, but our time is running short.  Many thing in Venezuela are so inexpensive that many don't believe it when we talk about it.  We have been traveling in and out of the area for a year and half and we still can't believe it.  The thing that is really different is the overall quality and professionalism.  It is quite a bit lower.  You have to watch and supervise the simplest thing to get top notch work.  But even then it can be a battle.  This mosaic is as nice as anything in the US and very original.

25/12:  Christmas is here and though we are away from family and friends we still see the holidays as a wonderful time. We all gathered up at AL Ancla restaurant for Maria-Elna's Christmas dinner.  We chatted about friends and family at home, about where we were all heading after the holidays and what a wonderful life we have.

After the traditional stuff of ourselves with stuffed turkey and cranberry sauce, we all waddles off to hide and sleep in our floating homes.  At home we took a nap and then awoke for a late afternoon walk around the marina.  IT was strangely quiet as everyone was still snoring and sleeping off the lunch.

26/12:

Happy Birthday Admiral Sharon!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now that Christmas has past another birthday rolls around for Sharon.  As cruisers we get together with friends that are here and miss those that are not.  Sharon still has the wind to blow out all of those candles on the Tres-Leche Cake made especially for Sharon by the owner of the restaurant.

Tres-Leche cakes is one of the few Venezuelan deserts that I really like. It is made with 3 milks, dry, whole, and sweetened condensed milk over a chiffon type cake.  It is Sabroso!!!!!

27/12: Alex and Norequis took us to dinner in a locals restaurant in downtown Puerto La Cruz.  They pick us up in Alex's car a 78 Ford Fairmount 4 door.  It was pretty rough.  This is the average car running here. The restaurant was a neat but very rustic place where ate mixed grill for 2. The meal included beef, chicken, terrizo and blood sausage, yucca, and cabbage salad for 35,000bs or 18US.  We ate until we were stuffed and had a Sambuca to top it off.  Sharon and I picked up the check which totaled over 100,000bs for 4 dinners and drinks.  Alex really wanted to pay it all but this is about half weeks pay for him.  It would be like going to Morton's steakhouse in the US and picking up the tab for all of your friends.  Expensive relatively.

The PLC waterfront is very pretty with the bay in one direction and the street venders along the walk way.  When we travel we try to avoid eating at restaurants that are at home, but here McDonalds is a middle class and pricey restaurant.  You don't go there if you have a little bit of money and are looking to save.  We had 2 ice creams with mora and chocolate sauce. 

We looked and Alex and Norequis kept trying to buy us something.  First they tried to buy me jewelry, but I don't wear any (except my new wedding ring).  The Venezuelans love ceramic front porches. Alex gave us one last year.  Finally they settled on a ceramic wall hanging of a sunflower and a hand cut key chain with my name "Bil" and "Chinita" for Sharon.   It was time to head home after the walk and the viewing of the larger than life Nativity scene.

29/12:  The year is coming to an end and we are beginning to provision for the long trip home.  We expect to be back in the Bay by July 1, YUK!!!!!  But first we are going to cruise Blanquia, Dominica, the VI's British, Spanish, and the US, along with the Turks and Cacao's and then month or so in the Bahamas.  There still is a few places we want to see and people we need to meet.

31/12:  Last entry in the 2005 log and it is NOT exciting.  We met at the restaurant with Calico Clam, Elaine from Manana, and Cool Runnings for cafe and cerveza.  We celebrated Tonga New Years earlier in the day then French at 7PM AST and then GMT at 8PM AST and trundled off to bed. 

The Venezuelans love their fireworks and all day and night the were going off.  Little ones, big ones, fat ones, and loud ones.  At about 2330 AST the rose in volume and rate of fire until about 0030 in the New Year.  The marina had boats blowing horns and people cheering. 

Happy New Years to all

Fair winds and Fine water.....~~~ _/) ~~......... Logs for 2005 are closed

Cap Bil and Mrs Admiral Sharon